Bérchules Village
This geografic region (non-political) extends from the Sierra Nevada watershed in the north to the Mediterranean sea in the south, and from the Guadalfeo River in the west, to the Andarax River in the east. It includes parts of the provinces of Granada and Almería.
The greatest impact came from the Moors, from 711 to 1492, when they experienced a 'golden age' by creating a sophisticated irrigation system that allowed intensive agriculture. By planting mulberry trees they created a new industry, that of silk. When the Moors were expelled at the end of the 16th century, Philip 11, repopulated the area with 2,500 families coming from Galicia (northwest).
The geography of Las Alpujarras is spectacular: from sea level to the highest mountain peak in Spain (Mulhacen, 3,482m) over 30 km. There are 15 mountain peaks above 3000 meters and the area contains many exclusive plant and insect species. The bird population is massive and varied, from songbirds to owls and it is possible to see the majestic flight of an eagle. Reptiles and lizards can be seen, similar wild boars, ibexes, foxes, badgers and even civets.
Bérchules has a Mediterranean climate with a hot, dry period of at least 2 months in the summer period. Most rain falls in spring and autumn, but the rainfall can vary greatly, from 300 mm in a year on the coast of Almeria to 1500 mm on the high mountain peaks. Due to the large differences in altitude in the area, Las Alpujarras sometimes experiences tropical temperatures on the coast in winter, but also icy cold on the highest mountain peaks.
The economy still depends on agriculture. Mules can still be seen toiling in fields too steep for tractors and goats grazing along the mountain sides. The main local products are wine, cherry tomatoes, green beans, almonds and olives, but almost anything can grow there, from avocados, dates and mangoes on the tropical coast, to cherries, raspberries and strawberries, walnuts and chestnuts in the higher areas.
The village dates back more than 800 years ago, when the Alpujarras was ruled and inhabited by the Moors. The name is derived from the ancient Arabic 'vergel' or pasture. The area used to be home to wealthy small businesses and was an important center for the silk trade. The mulberry trees still stand along one of the most beautiful local walks leading to the ruins of the silk factory which with its perfect Moorish arch is still intact and now provides a lovely spot for a picnic.
Bérchules is located on a mountain slope above the deep river gorge, with water coming from the Guadalfeo river. Behind it lies the snow-capped Sierra Nevada surrounded by terraced and irrigated agricultural lands. There are large old chestnut trees, cherry, peach and apple orchards, and fields of cherry tomatoes, green beans, raspberries and strawberries. You frequently hear the bells that the sheep, goats and cattle have hanging around their necks ringing, and the many birds sing their cheerful songs.
Since the 1950s, the population has shrunk from more than 5,000 to slightly more than 700 inhabitants in 2018, but that number will rise again because the economic crisis means people are returning to work in the fields. San Pantaleon is a saint and his image can be found in the Renaissance church. Every year on July 27, his statue is carried through the streets, accompanied by hymns, brass band music and later fireworks. This sometimes leads to strong emotions among the gathered crowd, which can even be moved to tears. foxes, badgers and even civets.
San Marcos is another religious traditional festival celebrated in April. The cattle, beautifully dressed, walk in a procession from the Bérchules church to the Alcutar church and back. At the large crossroads the priest blesses the animals and prays for good weather and a good harvest. A less old tradition is celebrating New Year's Eve on the first Saturday of August, where the village has a Christmas atmosphere. There is a procession with the epiphany and a festive atmosphere until midnight. When the bell rings, everyone eats exactly twelve grapes because this brings luck for the coming year, the champagne corks pop and people dance and relax.
The influence of the Moors is still visible in Bérchules, with its steep, narrow, cobbled streets, more comfortable for mules than for cars or people. The higgledy-piggledy houses are brightened up with a splendor of colorful plants, there are many fountains, wash houses and drinking troughs.
There are two banks (one with an ATM), a few shops, a pharmacy, a doctor's surgery, a library, a school, several bars with tapas and a helipad for medical emergencies. Trevélez is located west of Bérchules and is the highest village in Spain. It is also the center for local ham production, the famous Jamon Ibérico.
Yegen is located east of Bérchules and is known for its literary heritage, namely the former home of the British writer (1894-1987) of South From Granada, Gerald Brenan (1894-1987). Cádiar is located just below Bérchules and offers several shops and a market.