The town dates back over 800 years to when the Alpujarras was ruled and inhabited by the Moors. The name is derived from the ancient Arabic “vergel” or pasture. It was a collection of wealthy smallholdings and a centre for the silk trade; mulberry trees still line one of the prettiest local walks leading to the ruins of the silk factory, with its perfect Moorish arch still intact, now a delightful spot for a picnic.
The town perches on the mountain side above the deep river gorge, the source of the Guadalfeo. Behind is the snow-capped Sierra Nevada and all around are terraced and irrigated farm lands. There are great old chestnut trees, cherry, peach and apple orchards, and fields of cherry tomatos, green beans, raspberries and strawberries. You will hear the tinkling of bells of all sizes on the sheep, goats and cattle and the jolly song of multitudes of birds.
Since the 1950s the population of over 5000 shrunk to 850 in 2011; but in the present economic crisis many are returning to work on the land.
San Pantaleon is the patron saint and his effigy is in the renaissance church. Every year on July 27th his statue is paraded around the streets accompanied by hymns, fireworks and a brass band, causing huge emotion and even tears among the gathered crowds.
San Marcos is another traditional celebration, in April, with a procession of livestock duly spruced up, from Berchules church to Alcutar church and back again. At the main crossroad the priest blesses the animals and prays for good weather and a decent harvest. A more recent tradition is New Year's Eve in August when the Christmas spirit returns to town. The Three Kings parade, an air of excitement pervades until midnight when the clock chimes, the twelve grapes are swallowed by all, the champagne corks pop, the dancing begins and tension is released.
The Moors' influence is still visible in Berchules, with its steep, narrow, cobbled streets, more comfortable for mules than for cars or humans. The higgledy-piggledy houses compete with their displays of colourful plants and there are many fountains, washing houses and drinking troughs. There are two banks (one with a cash dispenser), a few shops, a chemist, a doctor's surgery, library, school and a helicopter pad for emergencies. Plus several bars for tapas.
Trevélez, to the west and the highest village in Spain, is the centre for local ham production; Yegen, to the east, has a literary heritage as the former home of British, Bloomsbury Set author of South From Granada, Gerald Brenan. Just below Bérchules, the small market town of Cádiar provides some better shopping opportunities.